The Anatomy of Shirt Making

The Anatomy of Shirt Making

We make western shirts in Texas. Here's how:

 

1. Source Fabric

We source highest quality fabrics from Japan and Portugal, two countries with rich textile histories. We are drawn to fabrics that have texture, depth of color, and exceptional durability.

2. Produce the Sample

Did you know it's almost four times as expensive to produce a sample as it is to produce a full run of shirts? Not only do fabric mills charge more for sample yardage, but also cutting and sewing one shirt at a time isn't efficient. However, samples are an important part of the design process. We test how the fabric interacts with interfacing, pearl snaps, and different thread weights. We wash the garment to test for durability and shrinkage. Samples are a (very) painful, yet necessary part of the process.

3. Plan Production

If the sample produced withstands our design and quality standards then we plan for production. We usually order 240 meters per style, which produces around 120 units depending on the country of origin. Japanese fabric bolts are smaller than Portuguese fabric bolts because they're produced on vintage looms. To produce one style, we purchase the fabric, thread and pearl snaps from our contacts in Los Angeles, and any other necessary materials. The secret to success: ensure you have all of your materials before starting the project.

4. Make the Shirt

Here is the very quick and dirty on how a shirt is made. Let's say we're producing 30 short sleeve pearl snap shirts in size large. The cutting team spreads the fabric on our cutting table 30 times. They then trace the desired pattern on said fabric and cut the 30 layers. A short sleeve shirt is made up of 11 to 13 different pieces. These pieces are then passed to the interface station. The fusing team irons pieces of interfacing to pieces of the shirt that require more shape and strength i.e. the collar, placket, pocket flaps. The fusing team then puts the cut pieces into bundles and passes them to our seamstresses. We have an assembly line of five amazing seamstresses. Each one sews a different part of the shirt and passes it to the next person in line. Once the shirt is sewn, it is passed to the trims department. Here the shirt is marked, and the trims department presses pearl snaps onto the shirt. Once finished, it is passed to quality control. Here, the shirt is inspected for imperfections - are the pockets sewn on straight? Are the pearl snaps secure? The shirt is then ironed, folded, and packaged to put into the inventory closet.

5. Photography & Marketing

This is self-explanatory, right? Good.

6. Sell Shirts

Now here comes the complicated part. After all of that, people still have to like the shirt. After 10 years of designing western shirts in Texas, we're confident in our point of view and knowing what our customers like, but there are always some flops and there are always some styles that sell out in one week.

It ain't easy, but someone's gotta do it. 

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